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Concept edit
A practice redesign built to test layout, copy, motion and conversion flow.
Most cars need two or three of these. The assessment decides which, and in what order, based on what the paint can actually take.
Every bonded contaminant comes off before anything is added back. Snow foam, iron fallout removal, then tar and adhesive lifted with solvent and a plastic blade. Wheels come off so the barrels and arches are cleaned properly rather than rinsed. Glass is clayed and sealed, trim is dressed matte, and the paint is left ready for whatever comes next.
Recommended for: Any vehicle, and the required first step before correction.
Most interior damage we see was caused by previous cleaning. We work at low moisture, match the pH to the material, and re-pigment worn leather bolsters rather than burying them in dressing. Alcantara is lifted and re-napped by hand. Odour is treated at the source rather than covered, which usually means the headliner and the cabin filter.
Recommended for: High-mileage cabins, pale leather, and any car being sold.
We gauge coating thickness across every panel before a pad touches the car, then cut and refine only as far as the readings allow. Swirls, wash marks and buffer trails are removed, not hidden behind glaze. Every stage is checked under a 3000K inspection light and wiped down with solvent, so what you are looking at is the paint itself.
Recommended for: Dark and single-stage paint, and anything never corrected.
A coating is only as good as the surface beneath it, so we will not apply one over uncorrected paint. Once the finish is right, the coating is levelled panel by panel in a dust-controlled bay and cured overnight. The result sheds water, resists etching from bird lime and hard water, and makes routine washing considerably less risky.
Recommended for: Any corrected car, and every vehicle kept longer than a year.
Film is the only thing that reliably stops stone chips. We pattern-cut on a plotter, then relieve and wrap every edge by hand so there is no visible line at the bonnet shut or wing arch. Front-end coverage handles the majority of road damage; full-body coverage suits cars that will be stored, shown, or driven hard.
Recommended for: Exotics, new deliveries, and anything doing motorway miles.
Engine bays are where pressure washers do real damage. Ours are covered at the intake, alternator and every exposed connector, then cleaned with brushes and low-moisture chemistry rather than flooded. Painted surfaces are sealed, plastics are left satin, and nothing is coated in the wet-look dressing that traps dust.
Recommended for: Cars going to sale, show, or a pre-purchase inspection.
Polishing a hazed headlight removes the factory UV layer and buys a few months. We wet-sand through the grades until the oxidation is gone, refinish the lens, and apply a fresh UV-stable coating so it does not return next summer. Output is checked against the beam pattern before the car leaves.
Recommended for: Any car over five years old with clouded or yellowed lenses.
Correction is an investment a poor wash undoes in a season. Cars on the program come in at a set interval and are washed with the same two-bucket method, dedicated media and pH-neutral chemistry every time. Coating performance is checked at each visit and topped where it has started to drop off, and members hold priority slots in the diary.
Recommended for: Every car we have corrected or coated.
Most people are not, and guessing is the expensive way to find out. Bring it in and we will measure the paint before recommending anything.
(123) 456-7890 · Monday to Saturday